miércoles, 17 de septiembre de 2014

YOU LOST? THAT’S GREAT!



Sounds kind of sarcastic, doesn’t it? Now, think about it -- it’s not a bad thing to lose; in fact, you can learn a lot more by losing than you can by winning. Still not convinced? Well, I guess no one in their right mind wants to lose, and depending on your reason for showing, losing can make you ANGRY, HURT, SAD, FRUSTRATED, and even JEALOUS! Which emotions are much harder on your psyche than actually losing, when you think about what they do to you.

So, how can losing ever be a good thing? Speaking to the relative newcomer to showing dogs, I guess the first place to start is to understand why you are showing dogs. There are as many reasons as dogs, and even more complicated; however, let’s sort out the major ones.

1. You bought a really nice puppy, and the breeder wants you to show.
2. You bought a really nice puppy, and you want to show because
  • a) It looks like fun 
  • b) You have a good competitive spirit 
3. You breed dogs, and as a breeder, you want to "compare" your dogs with others.
4. You breed dogs, and you want to show everyone how wonderful your dog is.
5. Your dogs are better than ________’s, and you want to beat him/her.

No matter what your reasons, we all start out as novices in the only sport that requires the rank amateur to go up against the seasoned professional, no holds barred. If you believe everything you hear, you give up before you start – and hand the dog over to a professional handler. Or, even worse, you start showing the dog, and lose – and then decide it’s all politics, and give the dog to a professional handler.
The professional dog handler should love showing dogs, he gets his kicks from winning, not to mention his livelihood. He has become an expert by dint of study, practice, listening, watching and learning. He has a varied choice of quality dogs to pick from, and if he has a good eye, he takes out the best. Sometimes he takes out a dog that isn’t great, but finishable, to help with expenses – and because the owner wants so desperately to make his dog a champion. His time is limited as handling requires management skills, people skills, and dog skills … and training, dealing with clients, etc. take up a lot of time. There are those owners who simply have no desire, or time, to show their own dogs … these people have to use a handler.
What you must remember is that there isn’t any owner handler who can’t devote a great deal more time to learning these same handling skills, and hone it to a fine art! Going in the ring the first few times can be kind of scary, but if you go with the expectation of learning, not winning, it’s amazing what you can pick up in just a few shows. Then, perhaps, you’ll be interested in attending one of the many "handling" classes offered by most all-breed dog clubs, and which provide excellent socialization for your dog as well as learning the ropes yourself.
You should learn what to look for from the judge, other exhibitors, and little "Poopsie" himself. When you lose (notice I didn’t say if), begin to find out why. Don’t blame politics, the judge, another exhibitor or the condition of your dog. These are all non-excuses – if the dog is out of condition, that’s your fault for showing him like that; if you tripped over him in the ring, that’s your fault! If the judge didn’t like your dog, Hey! You paid for his opinion, remember? He might like your dog better another day, in the company of a different group of exhibitors. If another exhibitor dropped his brush on your dog, or stomped around the ring too aggressively, that person may be nervous, too - and the next time try not to get next to him in the lineup.
See, you’re learning already. If your dog lost because he wasn’t as good as the winner, ADMIT IT, if only to yourself. Being oblivious to the faults of the dog you’re showing not only proves you’re kennel-blind, but how can you present a dog properly if you don’t know what faults to minimize? If you win, … ummmmmhhh! Bad. Now you have nothing to learn. You have a great dog, and you’re a great handler, the judge is excellent and all you have to do is keep up the good work, right? Wrong! Because the next time you just might lose, and then what … are you going to start looking for excuses, or accept the responsibility and find out why.
It’s tough to win one day, and lose the next in the same competition - but judging is very subjective, and judges are human. Every time you win, your self esteem is bolstered, and it gets harder and harder to lose – and when you lose, it becomes a serious blow to your pride. Losers must take a serious look at their dog -- no matter who you ask, people are very leery of critiquing others dogs – that can get them in trouble. Ask me, I know! Competitors won’t be generous in their praise, trust me, unless they’re looking for fillers for points they hope to win themselves.
So, educate yourself about what a good dog is - and remember, just because a dog is a big winner, doesn’t necessarily mean he’s a good dog. Just because your dog wins doesn’t mean he’s a great dog! Maybe he won against poor competition, under a blind judge, and because he walked in the rain, and the others wouldn’t. Maybe he’s highly advertised, promoted and shown 45 weekends in the year - he’s bound to amass "clout" and a "win" record. All I’m saying is if your dog is in perfect condition, perfectly groomed, well trained and handling well – and you continue to lose regularly, there’s a reason. Sniff it out, listen to friends, talk to judges, and above all don’t be kennel blind to the faults that may be there.
Maybe I’m a hardhead, but when I started, I remember showing dogs for over a year before I ever took a point! When I lost, I found out the reason was usually something under my control, and I took the responsibility for making it work. Sometimes, I had to go with another dog - hard to admit your pride and joy just doesn’t have it - but that’s easier than the alternative -- finishing a bad dog! So join the ranks of "learners", of which I’m one. There has never been a show where I didn’t learn something new; about handling, about judges and the competitors. When you stop learning, you might as well get out of the dog game completely because when you already know everything, what’s the point?

martes, 2 de septiembre de 2014

Saint Bernard Frequently Asked Questions



Personality:
Calm and dignified. Obedient, very devoted and loyal. Wants to please. Steady, kindly and patient with children. 

Since the dog is so gigantic, be sure to socialize very well with people at an early age.
Behaviour:
Children: Excellent with children.
Friendliness: Loves everyone!!!
Trainability: Easy  to train.
Independence: Needs people a lot.
Dominance: Moderate.
Other Pets: Good with other pets if raised with them from puppy hood.
Combativeness: Friendly with other dogs.
Noise: Not a barker.
A Saint is NOT A GUARD DOG!!!

What follows are several of the questions asked of owners of Saint Bernards.
How much does a Saint Bernard eat? A Saint Bernard does not eat as large of quantity of food as many people suspect. They will not "eat you out of house and home". A Saint Bernard can be raised and maintained on the same amount of food required for other large breeds. Saint Bernards are basically docile, sedentary dogs, and generally require less food per pound of body weight than smaller, and more active breeds.
How much do Saint Bernards weigh? As puppies, Saint Bernards weigh about one and one-half pounds at birth and grow rapidly during the first year – sometimes five pounds a week. It may take as long as three or four years before a Saint Bernard reaches full maturity due to their slower metabolism. Adult males should reach a height of 30-34 inches at the shoulder with a normally weigh between 150 and 190 pounds. Females are somewhat smaller at about 26-30 inches at the shoulder and typically range from 120 to 150 pounds.
Are Saint Bernards good with children? Absolutely. They seem to have an innate, almost natural understanding of children and are amazingly careful not to injure them. They are excellent babysitters and companions.
Are Saint Bernards easy to train? Saint Bernards MUST be trained early in his or her life. Saint Bernard, even the smaller ones, are incredibly strong animals, capable of pulling thousands of pounds. Think of this in terms of what will happen to your arm when the Saint Bernard attempts to chase the neighbourhood cat or squirrel. What about when Grandmother Lucy comes over and your Saint Bernard decides to jump on her? Fortunately, Saint Bernards are eager to please their owners and will begin responding to commands as soon as they understand what you want of them. Do yourself a favour and begin obedience training the first day your Saint Bernard arrives in your home.
Do all Saint Bernards shed? Yes, at least twice a year, and usually in the Spring and Fall season. During this time they will lose much of their coats, sometimes in large clumps that help them adjust to the changing seasons. This is sometimes called “blowing coat” and the poor Saint Bernard appears almost naked, but this is perfectly normal. For the remainder of the year, there is a minor amount of shedding and should not be the cause for any annoyance. Because Saint Bernards shed, regardless of their coat type and length, there is simply no such animal as a hypo-allergenic Saint Bernard. Such a creature is the result of either ignorant breeders or capitalists seeking to make a profit.
Do all Saint Bernards drool? Yes. The weather, the level of excitement, the shape of the dog's jowls, and the method used to provide water to the Saint Bernard all contribute to the amount of saliva, or "drool" produced. Most Saint Bernards will drool on occasion.
Is there a "dry mouth" variety of the Saint Bernard that does not drool, or does not drool as much? There is no such thing as a "dry mouthed Saint Bernard". If the Saint Bernard was bred correctly and conforms to the breed standard, it will have lips "flews" that hang. Saliva accumulates in the flews and when no more saliva can be held, the Saint Bernard begins to "drool". This is true of any dog that has flews, such as boxers. Some Saint Bernards drool less than others, providing the appearance that they are "dry mouth". Most Saints do not drool to an offensive degree, as portrayed in television programs and movies. Providing water via a large bottle, similar to what is used for rabbits, seems to reduce the amount of drool when compared to a bowl of water.
Do Saint Bernards make good watch dogs or guard dogs? The size of most Saint Bernards combined with the tone and volume of its bark will be enough to discourage most intruders. If an intruder gets by the size and bark, your may find that the Saint Bernard has decided to lead the intruder straight to the family treasure, since he would much rather make a new friend than protect your valuables. The one exception to this is when a member of the family is being threatened. Occasionally, when found in this situation the Saint Bernards instinct to protect those he loves becomes very apparent. This is dependent upon blood lines; ask your breeder how his or her Saint Bernards typically react in situations such as these. Your Saint Bernard will learn quickly to recognize your family and friends and seek to become their friends.
Why do some Saint Bernards appear to have short hair and others long hair? The original Saint Bernards from the Hospice in Switzerland were all short-haired dogs. Over 150 years ago, in the 1830s, the Monks at the Hospice believed the long coat of the Newfoundland would improve the short hair, smooth coated Saint Bernard’s ability to survive in the snow. The decision to interbred Saint Bernards proved a failure, however the influence of that interbreeding is present today and provides both long, or rough coat, and smooth, or short coat, Saint Bernards. Rough coat Saint Bernards require more grooming that the smooth coat, due to the greater potential for matted hair.
How much room does a Saint Bernard need? Contrary to what many would think, Saint Bernards do not require large areas to roam. By nature, Saint Bernards are neither active nor nervous breeds and are perfectly content to remain close to home for the most part. Consequently, a small fenced yard or kennel run with of an adequate height is enough. It is important that there is some place for the Saint Bernard to exercise regularly. For the Saint Bernard who lives in an apartment setting, frequent walks will be required to make up for the lack of an exercise area. Saint Bernards, by nature are not fence jumpers or climbers, but occasionally a Saint Bernard learn on its own, or by observing another breed that even a six (6) foot fence is no obstacle. The Saint Bernard is a social creature and desires to belong in a pack setting. Providing additional time in the house with the family, or supplying the Saint Bernard with a friend to play, ought to resolve the fencing escaping issue.
Is a Saint Bernard an indoor or an outdoor dog? Saint Bernards are both indoors and outdoor dogs.
Should I get a male Saint Bernard or a female Saint BernardThis is strictly a matter of individual taste and personal preference. Both are equal in becoming the ideal pet or companion. The male Saint Bernard will be larger, is therefore more impressive when first viewed as opposed to the female. The female Saint Bernard is of a slightly smaller build, however, must she be considered his equal in all other respects. Some Saint Bernard breeders will explain the male temperament as less independent that the females. Some Saint Bernard breeders will explain that male Saint Bernards tend to bond to women and female Saint Bernards tend to bond to men. In the end, the Saint Bernards will choose for themselves who they wish to bond with, and continue to get along with everyone else. A male Saint Bernard can either be independent or not, as is equally true for the female. Most veterinarians recommend the practice of sterilizing (spay or neuter) non-breeding animals for two reasons. First, neutered males and spayed females are at less risk for health issues, such as ovarian and testicular cancer. Second, animal shelters are already at or over capacity and neutered males and spayed females are incapable of falling victim of an accidental breeding.

How do Saint Bernards handle hot weather? As long as there is a cool dry place to nap and plenty of fresh cool water provided, a Saint Bernard will do just fine in hot weather. The amount of food consumed and activity performed will be reduced. Abrupt changes in temperature are extremely hard on a Saint Bernard. This means going from an air conditioned environment into an extremely hot environment can be dangerous for a Saint Bernard. Care should be taken to provide a slow and gradual change in activity while the Saint Bernard adjusts to the change in climate.

martes, 19 de agosto de 2014

Health and Grooming of your Silky

Health and Grooming of your Silky is of up most importance.  It is necessary to keep your Silky current on all shots, vaccinations, heartworm treatments, free of parasites and annual health checkups.

Grooming is also very necessary for your Silky’s comfort.  Who wants to go around with matted, dirty hair!!  Makes your skin itch and crawl and no one will hold you or sleep with you!  By clicking on Grooming you can go to some basic grooming information.

We are very fortunate in that the Silky, as a breed, is a very healthy one.  We do not have much in the way of inherited illnesses or problems but there are a few things we need to be watchful for and in breeding our Silkys we certainly want to try to KEEP our breed free of serious problems.  One way to do that is to keep records of health problems.  Sometimes a slight lean towards a problem can be nipped in the bud if noticed early on.

jueves, 24 de julio de 2014

Australian Silky Terrier


Silky terrier is one of the few breeds that do not cast its coat. The coat of the dog does not usually reach the floor so the care after it is much easier than the care after the Yorkshire terrier coat. Silky terriers do not require top-knots and the use of curlpapers. Hair on the head does not bother dog while eating.

Silky terrier and Yorkshire terrier are the two absolutely different breeds!!!

Silky terrier is very active dog and adores walking, though it can be easily taught to a fully in-side house life.

Australian silky terrier needs to be groomed periodically. According to the standards of the breed silky terrier has to be long-coated. Some people prefer short-coated doggies or cut hair of their pets.

Australian silky terrier is a breed that does not cause allergy!

Dirty and dry coat must not be combed!

It is necessary to put conditioner or other antistatic components on the comb beforehand.

Australian Silky Terrier is a small companion that adores being in the middle of attention and action.

Silky terrier can be characterized as very smart, brave and always ready to action. They are much socialized, energetic and in good mood. They are ready to any action that will bring happiness to his owner. Silky terriers are very curious, active and quick. The hunting instinct is highly developed. Despite the sizes of the dog they are good at guarding.

The dog is very compact and friendly and enjoys travelling and hunt. Silky terriers are intelligent and learn quickly. Are friendly towards all family members and like to be in company. They can live together with other animals, like children and attention. The dog is of truly terrier character and can easily be prepared to compete in dog shows.